Rohan First Ascent

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First Ascent of remote Himalayan 6000m peak

My name is Elliott Forge and I have recently returned from an expedition to attempt the first ascent of a 6000m peak in the Indian Himalayas, and I am very happy to report that our team of 4 was successful.

Myself, Jason Bailey, Jane Cooper and my business partner at Snowline Productions, Al Boardman, drove for 2 ½ long days on rough tracks before beginning a 2 day trek in to an unexplored and remote region of the North West Indian Himalaya.
We summited on the 19th of September after ascending the 450m North face ice wall, and were on the mountain for 5 days before returning to our base camp.

The first day of our ascent was spent climbing 800m higher up the mountain and establishing an advanced base camp (ABC) at 5100m. On days 2 and 3 we investigated some of the possible ways up the main face.  Day 4 was our summit day and we left our tent at 3am to take advantage of
better snow conditions , and to give us the time to get up and back to ABC.
By sunrise we had reached the main obstacle on the route: a massive 1400ft ice face. It took us 3 ½ hours to climb this and gain the easier ground of the main ridge above the face, from here we continued on to the summit and reached it at 1pm.
We had been climbing for 10 hours so the summit celebrations were brief. We were all very tired and still had to on the topdescend the route we had climbed. This took a further 5 hours and we all arrived exhausted back at ABC.
The following day we descended slowly back down to base camp and a warm welcome from our camp cook Punsok, who then informed us that a rogue yak had destroyed Al’s base camp tent while we had been on the mountain, despite his efforts to prevent it. However, with his help we managed to cobble it back together using walking poles to replace the poles that had been bent and broken beyond repair.
We then spent 2 more days resting and eating before we began the 2 day trek back out to the nearest village.

I wore Ultimate Cargos and Expedition Shirts for the journey through India and the trek in, and they were absolutely brilliant. On the mountain I wore a pair of Superstrider Trousers for climbing, which have now become one of my favourite pieces of mountain clothing.

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